Breakfast at the Top of a Castle
There are plenty of castles in Ireland, but my favorite isn’t the most famous one, or the grandest, or even the easiest to find on a map. It’s Carrigafoyle Castle, tucked away near Ballylongford in County Kerry. I stumbled upon it back in 1999, driving a friend around northern Kerry, and it immediately became one of those places I couldn’t let go of. Since then, I’ve stopped there half a dozen times—and I have a routine I follow every time.
My day usually starts in Kilkee, where I drive to the ferry in Killimer (approximately 20 mins). The short crossing over the Shannon is one of those small joys of traveling in Ireland. You leave one county and arrive on the other in what feels like the blink of an eye. You might even be lucky enough to spot dolphins on your way across the Shannon! From the pier in Tarbert, I head straight to a shop nearby. It’s nothing fancy - the Centra in Ballylongford - but it’s where I pick up a breakfast roll, a snack or two, and a hot cup of coffee.
From there, it’s only a few minutes’ drive to the castle. And this is where the magic begins. Carrigafoyle rises right on the edge of the Shannon estuary, tall and a little weathered, but still sturdy and free to explore. I always climb the winding and narrow stairs to the top. And that’s where I unpack my breakfast. Sitting on centuries-old stone, looking out over the water, unwrapping a breakfast roll and sipping my coffee - this is Ireland at its best for me.
It’s not crowded. It’s not curated. It’s not on most tours. That’s what I love most about Ireland: the moments that happen off the beaten path. The small traditions you build for yourself. The places that might not be in guidebooks, but become the highlights of your trip. For me, Carrigafoyle Castle will always be one of those places. If you find yourself on the Shannon ferry one day, I hope you’ll stop and see why.
A Little History of Carrigafoyle Castle
Carrigafoyle Castle was built in the late 1400s by the O’Connor Kerry family, one of the most powerful clans in the region. Its name means “rock of the gap,” a nod to the way it guards the Shannon Estuary. At five stories high, it was considered nearly impregnable in its day.
But in 1580, during the Desmond Rebellions, Carrigafoyle was besieged by English forces. Cannon fire from ships in the estuary brought down one of its walls, and the castle never fully recovered. Today, it stands as a striking ruin. It’s been restored just enough to let visitors safely climb to the top and take in sweeping views of the river.
How to find Carrigafoyle Castle
Carrigafoyle Castle is about 10-15 minutes from the Tarbert ferry terminal. Just type “Carrigafoyle Castle” into Google Maps and it will bring you right to the small parking area by the water. Entry is free, and you’re welcome to climb the stairs to the very top.
